These are collections that make you want to donate your entire wardrobe and start again. The times I have thought, “If only I could let go of the amassed memories in these clothes, jammed into many wardrobes and closets, I would be free!” Free to get modern, be an It girl, in the It dress, with the It bag. Hmmm. But, I like the original me, too. So, I’ll compromise and do both. I’ll pick those new pieces and mix them with the old.  And you can be sure these global designer names are betting on us all making the splurge. 

 

Alexander Wang for Balenciaga

The New Guard is a young and enticing group. Are you sold on the new or will you stick with your classics? Either way, the luxury designer will make sure you have all you desire. With his first show for Balenciaga, Alexander Wang took us to the next dimension for a very long-standing classical house that is used to pushing the boundaries. He gave us a new take on the sublime party dress. Girls in beautifully constructed mini-dresses of satin and lace corseting and ruffles strutted down the runway. 

Then there were simplified looks, with layer upon layer of diverse textures. The avant-garde, white textured skirt with a sheer white pencil overlay and mini-capelet was divine. And the powder pink, off-the-shoulder drop sleeve dress with little, black, 3D-textured detail was delightful. 

He did not forget to give us an ultra-modern and clean day look for spring, an A-line, mid-calf skirt, and sculpted tank in the finest white leather.

And not one beat was missed with the new take on the motorcycle jacket for spring. Cropped and extra-voluminous through the shoulder and arm, the softened corners in beautiful pale gray with a bell skirt all take a new look at the expectations of the ensemble. 

 

 

Raf Simons for Christian Dior

Raf Simons beautifully crafted, insider’s regalia gave us all a twinge of yearning to be a part of that premier movement. He took us to the future by way of the past in a silver cocktail ball gown, a silhouette reminiscent of that coveted Mad Men era. A subtle insignia on the lapel gave homage to a secret society we all wish we were members of. The series of colored texture and silver gowns made their way back to the signature Dior look with little black pointy stilettos.

We saw Raf’s take on the crop top in a pink pastel, the same insignia returned, but this time in a less subdued, textured crystal badge. At the waist is an origami feature. A lady-like pleated ivory silk skirt with a ‘peek-a-boo’ hipbone was surprisingly fresh and new, especially when topped off with textured, pointy, color-block shoes. 

He showed the everyday shirtdress for the modern woman, the recurring cutout this time on the shoulder. Crucial gathers at the waist define the femininity that is part of Dior’s DNA. In an entirely different silhouette, a rainbow of horizontal stripes made its way down the runway. The balloon skirt with pencil hem at three-quarter-length felt modern, with its pockets and asymmetrical scooped, tank-style top.

The lilac, satin balloon skirt with cascading organza was modern when paired with a cropped, athletic-cut tangerine top. Raf dazzled us with his play on blocking with texture. Ice blue crystals fluttered against the diagonal swathes of rouched and pleated satin, with a cool touch of black in the shoulder strap and shiny, strappy stilettos.

For spring, Raf Simons showed us a youthful and modern interpretation of the quintessential Dior look. 

 

Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent

Hedi Slimane took us on a journey through the decades; his spring line showed inspiration from the Teddy Boy suits and Rock & Roll of the 50s; 70s punk; the New York City music scene; and Parisian glamour of the 80s.

A pinstriped, metallic mini-skirt suit was young and new, especially when paired with this signature, white shirt and skinny tie menswear look. He carried through the black lapels with the houndstooth oversized men’s suit and high-waisted leather leggings.

He played with the 80s Blondie look, pairing a metallic leopard lame skirt with a sequined, striped bandeau top. He did not forget a signature oversized broach in diamante. He took us right to Paris glam with a sheer polka dot top and a clean skirt.

Of course, he didn’t forget the perfect Marlon Brando of The Wild One (1953) too-cool leather jacket look. He also experiments with the oversized shoulder on his own take of the tuxedo jacket for the modern day woman in a black sequined texture and skinny belt for balance, letting the shoulders rule the day. Paired with a punky take on the black mini-skirt with a jagged edge only adds to the new, rebel Saint Laurent woman.

 

Olivier Rousteing for Balmain

Olivier Rousteing gave us a dynamic new Balmain woman. Yes, she still loves her oversized jewelry as we saw in the gigantic gold chain cuffs and necklaces that adorned nearly every look, but we also saw fresh plays on classic pieces. For example the chic, black leather coveralls with padded-shoulder detail."It looked easy and modern, and of course, very strong.

 

His play on pinstripes as sexy work wear for the woman looked great teamed with a relaxed white shirt and still managed to come off as very sharp. 

 

A ruched pale-pink chiffon dress looked like a meringue delight with a dropped ruffle skater skirt and sheer polka-dot cowboy ankle boots. This is a look that a daring modern starlet might venture onto the red carpet…with or without the belt.

This year was impressive and enticing, I’m looking forward to next season’s New Guard. 

 

 

All images courtesy of style.com